Phyllis Brown
Salvatore Ferragamo, a true legend in shoemaking, carved a remarkable journey from a small village near Naples to becoming a celebrated icon of early Hollywood glamor.
His craftsmanship not only elevated shoes to the status of artworks, adorning the feet of legends such as Judy Garland and Marilyn Monroe but also reshaped how shoes were perceived and worn.
His designs of comfort and style played a pivotal role in ensuring that these women not only looked stunning but also felt empowered with every stride they took.
From stiletto heels to iconic pumps, his creations continue to influence fashion trends and inspire generations.
Salvatore’s passion for shoemaking at a very young age
Salvatore Ferragamo was born in 1898 in the small town of Bonito, located in the Campania region of Italy near Avellino. He was the eleventh of fourteen children born to Antonio and Mariantonia Ferragamo, who shared the same surname.
From an early age, Salvatore exhibited a passion for shoemaking. At 9, he crafted his first pair of shoes – high heels for himself and matching pairs for his sisters to wear at their confirmation.
This early endeavor sparked a lifelong dedication to shoemaking, revealing his true calling and setting the stage for his future success.
His relentless effort to improve his skills
After spending a year studying shoemaking in Naples, fourteen-year-old Ferragamo set up a small shop in his parents’ home. In 1915, he moved to Boston, Massachusetts, where his brother worked at a cowboy boot factory.
During his time in Naples and Boston, Ferragamo’s passion for learning and improvement was evident. He developed a strong work ethic and a commitment to creating ergonomic and beautiful designs.
“Elegance and comfort are not incompatible, and whoever maintains the contrary simply doesn’t know what he’s talking about,” he famously said. This quote sums up his belief that style and usability go hand in hand.
His dedication to comfort was so strong that, early in his career, he took anatomy classes at the University of Southern California. He wanted to learn more about the structure of the foot, which led to many groundbreaking innovations in his designs.
The rise of Salvatore Ferragamo: from Italian craftsmanship to Hollywood fame
When Ferragamo returned to Italy and settled in Florence in 1927, his innovation and love for craftsmanship grew even more.
He opened a workshop on Via Mannelli, where he experimented with design and applied for patents for his creations. Despite filing for bankruptcy in 1933 due to poor management and economic challenges, he didn’t give up.
In the 1950s, Ferragamo took on an ambitious project: mass-producing handmade shoes. Employing around 700 artisans and producing approximately 350 pairs of shoes daily, his success was undeniable. His brand was on the rise.
Salvatore Ferragamo’s commitment to creating comfortable yet elegant footwear was a blessing for many stylish women. They knew that at the end of any event, their feet would feel as good as when they first arrived: chic and pain-free.
His unique designs and the innovative wedge heel won over stars like Lillian Gish, Joan Crawford, and Greta Garbo. Later, icons such as Judy Garland, Marilyn Monroe, Audrey Hepburn, and Sophia Loren also became fans of his work.
His wife, Wanda recalls, “He started to design very fantastic shoes. The movie actresses and artists started to be enthusiastic about them. Because of that, we have a great legacy with the cinema.”
How Ferragamo revolutionized shoe design, particularly through iconic shoe designs
Salvatore Ferragamo’s work includes some true masterpieces, with the Rainbow shoe designed for Judy Garland standing out. Created in 1938, this shoe marked the return of platform shoes in the modern West.
The shoe was a tribute to Garland’s signature song “Over the Rainbow” performed in The Wizard of Oz (1939) feature film. It was made with cork slabs covered in suede and featured gold kidskin straps. Ferragamo’s choice of materials was driven by the need to find those not rationed during World War II.
In the 1960 film “Let’s Make Love,” Marilyn Monroe famously wore red Swarovski-encrusted pumps that highlighted her enduring collaboration with Salvatore Ferragamo, known as “the shoemaker of dreams.”
Monroe not only adorned Ferragamo’s four-inch stiletto heels on screen but also off-screen. To ensure comfort, Ferragamo crafted a new heel design for Monroe, using a patented blend of wood and steel.
It’s difficult to credit just one person with so many iconic styles, but Ferragamo really changed how shoes are designed.
Lasting legacy
Salvatore Ferragamo died in 1960 at 62, but he continues to influence the fashion world through his global brand. The brand has expanded its operations to include luxury shoes, bags, eyewear, silk accessories, watches, perfumes and a ready-to-wear clothing line, under the stewardship of his wife Wanda and their six children.
His Palazzo Spini Feroni, purchased in the 1930s, now hosts a museum dedicated to his life and work since 1995.
In 2013, Salvatore Ferragamo S.p.A. launched the Ferragamo Foundation in Florence, nurturing young fashion talents inspired by Ferragamo’s creative spirit.
